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Discover how a Canadian woman built a sustainable fair-trade camel trekking business, embracing the Bedouin way of life, and finding a new home in the Tunisian Saharan desert.
WE ASK: Juanita Reimer
What does it take to leave everything behind and start over in a foreign land — especially after 50? Juanita Reimer did just that, transforming her life from a social worker and Middle Eastern dance instructor in Canada to the founder of a fair-trade camel trekking business in Tunisia. For the past 18 years, she has called Tunisia home. Navigating self-doubt, cultural shifts, and business challenges, she is driven by her deep love for the Sahara and the unwavering support of her Bedouin and Berber communities. This is her story of adventure, resilience, and redefining life’s possibilities in the heart of the Sahara desert.
Why do you travel?
I travel for the love of the Sahara, camel trekking, the culture and the Bedouin and Berber communities in South Tunisia. They are some of the kindest and most honourable people I have ever known.
Canada to Tunisia: From social worker to entrepreneur
What inspired you to move to Tunisia and start your camel trekking business, Sahha Sahara? Were there specific factors or experiences that motivated this life-changing decision?
I’ve always been drawn to deserts, the Middle Eastern culture and camels have always been my favourite animal. My kids remember me taking them to the Vancouver Game Farm to visit their one mangy camel. On top of being a social worker, I was a Middle Eastern dance instructor for 10 years.
I had a life-changing spiritual experience during my first time in Tunisia where I spent a month backpacking during Ramadan. It was also then that I did a 10-day camel trekking trip. On day 8, I was sobbing, knowing my time in the Sahara was ending. Subsequently, I underwent 6 months of therapy as I was seriously considering moving! Lol.
What’s the transition like from living in Canada to embracing Tunisia’s desert lifestyle? Did you have any fears or apprehension in the beginning? How did you overcome them?
The honeymoon period lasted 5 years for me! Then after the rose-tinted glasses came off, I was faced with the difficulties. The only way I can describe it is that the highs are higher, and the lows lower.
In spite of the difficulties, the things that have remained constant are the love of the Sahara, camel trekking, the culture and the Bedouin and Berber communities in South Tunisia.
What challenges did you face when settling into a new country and community so different from your birthplace?
Communicating without good knowledge of the language (French or Arabic), food, and sometimes feeling like I was losing the ‘Canadian’ Juanita.
Setting up a fair-trade camel trekking business
What drew you to the camel tour industry in Tunisia, and why did you choose this path over other entrepreneurial opportunities?
Camels have always been my favourite animal. Combined with my love of the Sahara, it was a perfect match. What also became clear to me after living here for 5 years, was the poverty, and the lack of respect that most tour agencies had for cameleers.
It was very important that if I start a camel trekking business, it would be Fair Trade, with good treatment of the camels, and deep respect for cameleers. For without cameleers, there would be no camel trekking in the Sahara! Sahha Sahara works as a team rather than top down.
What makes Sahha Sahara unique compared to other desert tour operators in Tunisia?
Not just paying lip service, we are a Fair Trade organization rather than a company. Since its inception, our organization has focused on making a significant difference in the lives of families living in several specific villages in South Tunisia namely Ghlissia, Chenini, Matmata, Chebika, Mides, and Sabria.
There are no agencies that take guests as deep as we do. These deeper camel treks are more work for all of us and cost us more. Because of the difficulties and higher cost of these treks, other agencies do not want to spend more. So they take people on the same well-travelled routes, missing out on the totally different experience of deeper camel treks.
When I first started Sahha Sahara, I really didn’t think it would succeed. I often said “Who would book a camel trekking trip with a Canadian woman?” Despite such nagging thoughts, I went ahead and started it.
It was the year of Arab Spring* and there was no work for any cameleers. There was a tourism crisis; resulting in less jobs and even more poverty. Tourism disintegrated. In spite of the worst time to start a tourism business, I took the chance to try to provide the much needed work for my friends.
Boy, was I proved wrong!
What I have found over the years is that I provide a bridge to connect western people to the Bedouins and Berbers of the south.
We have created the delicate balance between authenticity, efficiency, comfort and hygiene by doing the following:
- Comfort of the saddles are of utmost importance
- Ensuring all our garbage is taken out – leaving only compostables – and footprints
- Menu planning – with a large variety of delicious Tunisian meals, including old recipes that are disappearing
- Connecting the right team of Bedouin cameleers, guides and drivers, as well as Berbers with guests during our south Tunisia tours. Thanks to the number of years living in the community, we were able to gather the best cameleers who take pride in sharing their culture and the work we do, making our treks a true cultural experience.
- Working towards ensuring that Fair Trade Business includes the women in the community who make our Bedouin tents, saddle bags, saddles, and camel bags.
- Many agencies pay Bedouin cameleers very little money. Yet, without the Bedouin cameleers, there would be no treks. We ensure respectable wages, and utmost respect for their work.
- Finally, I have worked diligently for many years to ensure open dialogue between the (often shy) Bedouin cameleers (and their families) and guests to encourage the meaningful sharing of cultures.
How did you learn the skills of a cameleer and gain an understanding of what tourists look for in a desert adventure?
I rode my first racing camel (with a specific racing saddle, where there is nothing to hold on to) after I was 50 years old.
I’m proud to be the first woman to participate in the International Festival of the Sahara. I think I must have been a Bedouin in my previous life because it came pretty easy to me.
I spent significant time in Bedouin camps and spent over a month in the hot summer months camel trekking with nomad families who were travelling deep in the Sahara on their way to the Algerian border.
As someone who has travelled myself, I always look for authenticity, and have found the “sweet spot” of balance between comfort and authenticity for our guests.
The challenges of starting a fair-trade camel trekking business in Tunisia
As a foreigner, what challenges or advantages have you encountered in starting and running a cameleer business in Tunisia?
One of the challenges has been the language. I don’t take to new languages easily. So it has taken me years to speak enough Arabic to be able to travel and communicate with the Bedouin cameleers as a guide in our work.
One of the biggest advantages is the utter kindness, generosity and open hearts of the Bedouins and Berbers of the south. Thankfully, my love of the Sahara, the country and the people of this beautiful country have made the transition a smoother one.
What does a typical day look like for you as the owner of a camel tour business in the Tunisian desert?
My days are never the same.
I am the only person who communicates by computer with the guests prior to them booking a trek or tour. This is an incredibly important role, and I take my responsibility seriously as without guests, there is no work for the team.
I create the menus for each trek, based on guests’ diet restrictions, creating a wide variety of meals based on the number of days on a trek. At the same time, I have introduced old forgotten Tunisian dishes to our menus.
One guest said to us that if someone is planning a food tour and trek in Tunisia, they should just do our 8 day trek!
I create all our tour and trek itineraries with the team, and alter them if needed.
I often spend time travelling the country to discover new out-of-the-way places to bring guests.
I pre-approve all hotels before we bring guests to them.
A woman entrepreneur in Tunisia
What was it like to establish yourself as a woman entrepreneur in Tunisia, especially in a traditionally male-dominated industry like camel tours?
One would think this would have been more difficult than it was. For the most part, the Bedouins and Berbers (men and women) have never shown me any disrespect because I am a woman. Both the men and the women respect the work I do, and I have deep friendships with both.
Tunisian women and men hold differing roles – especially in the south. I seldom see women who are limited. Their social life is just as rich as men, but not in the same way. Having said that, as a western woman, the standards are different for me.
How did you earn the respect of your team and overcome cultural or hierarchical barriers in your business? Could you share a specific example?
One of the biggest compliments I ever had in my life came from a Bedouin cameleer who said ‘You have a clean heart’. I think integrity, honesty and respect goes a long way.
I didn’t expect respect. But I have THE utmost respect for the life and work of the Bedouins and Berbers of the south.
You have to give respect before you can ever earn respect.
I lived alone in the Bedouin village – the cameleers and their families were my friends first.
I live, as much as possible as a western woman, in the traditional lifestyle. For example, I raised sheep and goats for 5 years, and even delivered a breach baby goat.
Were there moments when you doubted your decision to start a business in Tunisia? What kept you moving forward during those times?
The only doubt I ever had was when I first started the business, as I believed that no one would book a camel trek with a Canadian woman! Lol.
Even when times were tough for tourism, during Arab Spring for example, I kept moving forward because of my desire to help the Bedouin community find even a bit more work.
Environmental sustainability and camel care
How do you ensure Sahha Sahara operates sustainably and respects Tunisia’s fragile desert environment?
It took a long time (and patience) to help the cameleers understand the need for picking up our garbage and taking it out with us. Coming from a nomad culture, they didn’t even need to think about plastic. That’s because before that, everything they used was natural.
Now, the cameleers not only bring our own garbage out. When they see garbage left by others they often pick it up and take it out. These are proud moments for me.
What measures do you take to guarantee the health and well-being of your camels?
We have an amazing vet, who regularly checks the well-being of the camels. The cameleers on our team have extensive knowledge of camel health, and have even administered medication in the desert.
As an animal lover myself, I would not stand for any mistreatment of any animals. On our team, not only do our cameleers take good care of their camels, but they also have good relationships with them.
Have you noticed any evolving trends in what tourists are looking for in desert adventures and camel tours in Tunisia?
An increase in people interested in local food and hiking. But the most consistent feedback we get is about the cultural exchange and the unique experience.
READ
Camel riding and camping in Tunisia’s Northern Sahara desert
Falling in love with Tunisia and true cultural immersion
What cultural differences or surprises have you encountered while living and running a camel tour business in Tunisia?
There are not as many cultural differences in north Tunisia. But in the south there are many. Especially 18 years ago, when I first moved here. A couple of stories:
First story: I was invited to an Eid dinner at the home of my Bedouin friend’s parents. There were dozens of people milling around visiting in the open courtyard. I sat on a step and just enjoyed being there. In the corner of my mind, I kept hearing a ‘thunk, thunk’ sound, but didn’t pay attention to it.
Finally I realised what the sound was. Across from me, sitting on the floor of the patio was a large, old Bedouin woman. In front of her was a sheep’s head, and she was trying to wack it in half with the axe embedded in its head. From my viewpoint, all I saw was the sheep looking at me with its calm eyes, with its head going up and down with the axe. She had been trying to cut it in half to put it on the fire to barbecue. NOTHING gets wasted.
Second story: When I got my first kitten in the Bedouin village I live in, I bought a tray and put sand in it to act as kitty litter. Some of the Bedouins were amazed at how I could teach a cat to pee and poo in the house! Their cats wander in and out with doors open.
Another funny story: When I first settled here, my first apartment was in the larger town near the Bedouin villages while most of my friends were from the Bedouin villages. One day, I invited my friend over and she brought her sister. When they arrived, I could hear them laughing and screaming on the stairwell. I opened my second floor apartment door, and saw them crawling up the stairs on their hands and knees even though the stairwell had walls on each side. They had never been up a staircase of more than 2 or 3 steps.
Times have changed since in the Bedouin villages. Locals are exposed to more experiences now – but the underlying innocence is still in their hearts.
What do you cherish most about Tunisian culture and the people you’ve met?
The kindness and generosity of the people of the south.
You have embraced Tunisian traditions, like belly dancing, camel racing, and participating in festivals like the Douz Festival. What other Tunisian culture/heritage/traditions do you think every tourist should partake when in Tunisia?
A camel trek. While doing one of our tours, you will meet the local nomadic people and connect with them. Not just watch them from behind car windows!
Many of our guests have said to us and on Tripadvisor that our camel trek was one of the best experiences of their lives.
Can you tell us about the Douz Festival and its significance? Will you be taking part in camel racing this year?
The Douz International Festival of the Sahara has been running yearly since 1910. It now attracts up to 50,000 people. I’m hoping to participate again this year. I’m turning 70 years old this year. The first time I participated, I was in my early 50’s.
Reflections and advice
How has living in Tunisia and running Sahha Sahara changed you personally and professionally?
Living in a developing country for so long changes a person forever. Now when I go to Canada for my yearly family visits, I am often shocked at the waste and far too many choices. As far as produce, in Tunisia we eat what is in season. And this allows for so much more appreciation towards food. Many times we experience shortages of basic food. While frustrating, I have learnt to appreciate simple things so much more.
What advice would you give to someone thinking about moving abroad to start a business, especially in a country like Tunisia?
Do a test trial!!!!! I didn’t just move here on a whim. I took a 6-month leave of absence from my job in Canada to help me reach a more informed decision. In addition, I had 6 months of therapy to help me make such a major life decision.
Now when I go to Canada for my yearly family visits, I am often shocked at the waste and far too many choices.
Living abroad for so long changes a person – and I would always have to have a part of me here in Tunisia.
Looking back, is there anything you would do differently in your journey to set up your camel tour business in Tunisia?
I don’t think so. I was lucky that I have a (very small) pension from Canada which helped me before the business started growing (and during slow times). So I was able to grow the business based on the love of the Sahara, and of the people and culture here, and not operate from the desperate need of money.
Do you ever see yourself returning to Canada, or do you consider Tunisia your permanent home now?
The hardest part about living so far from Canada is missing my kids and grandkids. I became a grandma while living here. I was glad to fly back to Canada to witness the birth of my grandson. If I ever moved back, that would be the only reason. But the thing is, living abroad for so long changes a person – and I would always have a part of me here in Tunisia.
What are the best and most challenging aspects of living in Tunisia compared to Canada?
The best things about living in Tunisia:
i) Not a 9 to 5 job. Every day is different, both in work and in my life.
ii) Treated with respect and kindness – ageism is not prevalent here.
iii) Living so close to the Mediterranean sea and lifestyle.
The most difficult part about living in Tunisia:
Canadian/western comfort food (good cheddar cheese!). A story an expat friend told me best describes it. She said that her father had brought her peanut butter from North America which was not available in Tunisia then. She was indignant when she told me that he had the nerve to eat it for breakfast during his visit! I GET IT! Lol. Having a food item that is unavailable locally is like Christmas!
My Canadian girlfriends. Although I love my friends here, the culture is different, and conversations are VERY different.
Creating precious moments with her beloved grandchild. 
Conversations with her girlfriends are one of the best things Juanita looks forward to when home in Canada. 
Friends forever. 
Catching up with friends back home. 
Juanita with her bestie in Canada. 
Forest-bathing with her family in Canada. 
Her annual visits home in Canada have become precious family bonding time. 
One of Juanita’s sons visiting her in the Sahara desert in 2008.
What has been the most rewarding part of running Sahha Sahara and living a life connected to Tunisia’s desert?
Again, the people. Living and working in the same community as these extraordinary Bedouin people.
Experiencing the desert life and camel treks on a regular basis.
Having very happy guests is one of the biggest rewards. This is proof that I am doing the right thing.
Making a difference in the lives and livelihoods of Bedouins and Berbers of the south.
OWNING MY OWN CAMEL!!!
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*“The Arab Spring or the First Arab Spring was a series of anti-government protests, uprisings and armed rebellions that spread across much of the Arab world in the early 2010s. It began in Tunisia in response to corruption and economic stagnation.” [Wikipedia]
**All images are courtesy of Juanita Reimer.
