WanderA first-hand experience in riding a camel in the Sahara desert: Getting out of one’s comfort zone
Scale breathtaking sand dunes, participate in traditional bread making, and break bread with Bedouin guides as you camp under the stars.
TUNISIA – “Welcome to Douz. I’m Mounir, and I will be your guide for the next two days.” As we met outside our hotel in Tunisia, I was struck by my Bedouin guide’s fluent English and striking greenish-grey eyes.
Dressed in the traditional jebba, a long, wrinkly beige tunic thrown comfortably over cotton trousers, a well-worn yellow turban and brown leather-covered shoes, Mounir’s attire and presence belied an inexplicable air of royalty. A Bedouin cameleer by both birth and choice, Mounir’s gentle mannerisms and regal stature reminded one of an Arabic prince, sans the jewels, treasure chests and grand caravan.
The stunning shifting sands
Perched high on the camel, I found myself falling into a forwards and backwards rhythm as the beast trudged through the soft, fine sands of the Tunisian desert. Mounting a camel is almost like a circus act. The camel sits down with its forelegs tucked underneath while riders try their utmost not to scream or fall as the animal stands up abruptly. That split second from ground up was akin to a thrilling amusement ride.
Our bottoms fitted into a harness made of palm fibres, atop several layers of thick blankets. The colourful patterned blankets also made for a pretty sight in the Sahara desert.
As we trekked deeper into the infinite desert, it didn’t take long for me to master the balancing act between the rhythmic jerks with each step the camel took. Holding onto the wooden knob in front of my thighs when the camel walked up a dune, I realised that riding a camel is a very different experience from riding a horse where you balance with the reins using both hands.
The Sahara desert in full splendour
This was my very first experience in the desert, and it did not disappoint. Nature’s proudest exhibition was on display right before my eyes. Apart from its quiet beauty with the shifting sands under the camel’s feet, the sand dunes displayed an understated splendour.
I wished to freeze the scene right there and then: whispering winds, playful sands, amazing dunes and the orange glow of the desert. One moment, it was vast nothingness luring our thoughts, and the next, sand dunes taller than the camels and my height combined greeted us. There was nothing between me and the sky.
We were told that the sand dunes can scale several storeys high deeper into the desert. How spectacular is that?
Words are unable to express how I felt in the moment. Besides feeling surreal and extremely fortunate to partake in nature’s wonders, I felt an inexplicable sense of lightness.
Just as I was getting used to the thumps of the surefooted camels as they carried us on their backs in the soft sands, we stopped for lunch. The three cameleers went about their different tasks. Mounir secured the camels and went about scouting the area.
Desert-cooked hot food served fresh – Best in Tunisia
Samir the one with a kindly face, is the oldest and most self-assured of the three cameleers. He went about methodically preparing lunch for us, consisting of onions, cabbage and potatoes. The dishes lovingly prepared by Samir were easily the best we tasted in the entire Tunisia. With his stately moustache and turban seemingly wrapped in a haphazard yet methodical way, I could not help but envision his grandfatherly features framed in renowned American photographer Steve McCurry’s portrait exhibition.
Traditional breadmaking in Tunisia’s Sahara desert
Ahmad, the third cameleer and joker of the group, started a little bonfire. Skinny and the darkest of the lot, he exudes nervous energy. He proceeded to prepare flour, salt, water, cloth and the necessary pans to make the traditional desert bread by hand.
Baking bread using a self-created makeshift oven with the sands of the Saharan desert was a unique Saharan experience I won’t miss for anything.
While he mindfully tended to the fire and smoke, he scooped out the right amount of tea leaves with a measured amount of boiling water. With smoke trailing and the hot tea in our hands, the entire scene felt so dreamlike. I could hardly believe we are right here in the middle of the desert, drinking hot mint tea from glasses no less! And just the way Tunisians like it – with lots of sugar!
From freshly-baked bread to using sand as detergent
The trip to the desert was truly eye-opening. One thing after another surprised me. Not only was I able to partake in fresh, “home-cooked” food like fried rice and freshly baked bread, we could create a campsite in the middle of nowhere and make it our ‘airbnb’, right under the splendid blanket of stars. There were many more things I learnt about surviving in the desert.
Cleaning up involved using the pristine sands as “detergent” that even I, as someone who dislikes washing dishes, was excited to have a go at. What’s more, there was no food wastage at all. The potato peels, leftover vegetables were used to feed the camels or stored for use as compost.
The single humpbacked Tunisian camels
Of course, we took the opportunity to get up close with the camels that brought us here. A little bribing helps to establish some form of bond, I suppose? Chomping down sticks of vegetables, carrots and even oranges, camels seem to be pretty healthy eaters!
Fun fact 1: Did you know that camels' alluring eyes with enviously long eyelashes have a purpose? It's nature's gift to help them battle the flying sands as they navigate the desert.
Fun fact 2: Tunisian camels have one hump, called dromedaries, also known as "Jmel" in Arabic.
Fun fact 3: For ages, the camels have been an integral part of the nomadic communities, performing important roles in transporting goods and even agricultural tasks.
A proud and worldly-wise Bedouin
Mounir, on the other hand, was unlike any of the Bedouins. Brought up by a worldly-wise father who believed that education was the key to freedom, Mounir is one of the very few who was given the chance to a University education. He speaks French, English and Arabic fluently, with the former being his first language.
Mounir’s unique background may be what gives him a distinguished air making him somewhat different from his counterparts. His knowledge about world affairs, strong opinions about his choice of living demonstrated a quiet pride as a Bedouin. Despite his high education level, he chose to be a cameleer like his father, having been born and bred in the desert.
I found out more over our sumptuous dinner of stewed lamb under the bejewelled sky. Mounir shared how education can only go so far to escape the poverty trap. “Teachers, doctors and other professions do not earn much here. In fact, many Tunisian men have found tourism to be a good career, especially since it’s the best place to find rich, Western females who can bring them to America or Europe.” Tunisian men, according to the blogs I have come across, have a reputation of being persistent, and with wild displays of fawning over Western women, perceived as wealthy.
The Canadian woman who changed it all
He too, also found a saviour in a Western woman. But his situation was somewhat different. “Juanita, came and changed how we approached our cameleer business.” This was the same lady I communicated online with prior to my trek. Mounir explained that she has first-hand experience about what tourists like and don’t like, coming from the Western world.
“She changed how we conducted our tours, paid us better wages and overhauled our approach towards conducting our tours. She’s also the one who taught us how to re-tie the harness to make it more comfortable for both the rider and camel.”
With the know-how of a modern world where the wonders of technology can lead to economic success and financial security, Juanita not only brought a more systematic and organized approach to the cameleer business, she is also helping to spread the Bedouin lifestyle and culture far and wide.
As the night grew colder, I leant closer to the warm, comforting orange glow emanating from the toasty campfire. I tucked into the most delicious brik, a triangular deep-fried flaky pastry made of minced meat or potatoes, dipped in harissa – Tunisia’s quintessential spice – that goes with everything from bread to savoury dishes.
Ahmad whipped out a Darbuka, a goblet-shaped drum unique to Tunisia, and his deft hands went about creating mesmerising Tunisian tunes I have never heard before. I never knew Arabic was so achingly beautiful. I momentarily entertained the idea of learning Arabic, a beautiful language with thousands of years of rich heritage and culture imbued to it.
Camels are family, not animals
With the stars in full splendour, Mounir admits how his education could have brought him elsewhere with greater economic opportunities but he would never turn his back on his heritage and his beloved camels.
“My camels are not just a money-making tool, but my family”. Mounir recounted how the political unrest in 2015 led to a state of emergency which directly impacted his income. Daily living became an issue and in desperation, he sold his camel. Since then, he regretted the decision every single day, missing his prized camel sorely. It was serendipity that allowed him to buy back his beloved camel subsequently. When his camel saw him, both recognized each other and jumped with joy.
“I will never make the same mistake of giving any one of them up ever again.” Mounir continued to rave about his family member over his cracked voice about an incident in which his camel defended him in the face of a gang fight. His camel had saved his life.
Indeed, we had witnessed how much the cameleers care for their camels and are never rough or abusive towards them. Something I observed was that the Bedouins never rode on the camels, never overloaded them and made sure to feed them well.
I was curious how much a camel cost in Tunisia and the price shocked me. It was equivalent to a small Chanel handbag – something many office workers could afford back home. Though not exactly a cheap item back in Singapore, I thought of how some of my friends owned more than one Chanel handbag and my heart ached for Mounir and his camel.
A short yet extraordinary desert experience
Drunk over these touching stories, I sought warmth under a long draping cape and layers of blanket. As the night sky deepened, the cold desert air constantly lulled my eyes to shut. I could not help but marvel at the careful combination of these three men in a caravan, each with their uniqueness and skill set, and how they have made me feel safe and welcome in their homes.
My 3D2N desert camping trip was short but nothing short of extraordinary. It was definitely a humbling once-in-a-lifetime experience that allowed me to appreciate the nomadic lifestyle as well as gain a deeper gratitude for our privileged circumstances. I highly recommend anyone seeking unique experiences to undertake a desert trek and immerse in the local culture.
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What to wear in the Sahara Desert
- Outerwear and innerwear: Temperatures can vary vastly from day to night. Even though it was sunny, I kept my jacket on during the day because of the chilly air. At night, thermal wear or a thicker jacket may be required if you are scared of the cold, like me.
- Desert googles: Desert sand can get everywhere, so be well-prepared. Arm yourself with a windproof, anti-fog desert googles so you get to admire the beauty of the desert.
- Footwear: Since the sand can get everywhere, many opt for sandals when walking in the desert. I personally prefer a pair of high-cut ankle boots.
- Suncare: Always protect your skin, especially when you are in the open desert with no form of shade. Bring along sunscreen of at least SPF50+++. Brands such as Biore UV, Isdin, La Roche Posay, Avene, Cerave, Skin Aqua and Shiseido work well for me.
Booking your adventure
Though not the most budget-friendly agency, we chose Sahha Sahara primarily because they are less commercialised compared to other tour groups. We were also drawn to their promises of building a sustainable tourism business, on top of paying the Bedouin community ‘respectable wages’. Book your Sahara experience today!
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