WanderPHATTHALUNG, THAILAND – Imagine being locked out of your motorbike with the second set of keys a three hour ride away, stranded in an unknown destination, with no data plan and your smartphone running on low battery.
What’s travel without a sprinkle of misadventures?
In the heart of Southern Thailand, between the bustling city of Hatyai and the hidden gem of Phatthalung, what began as a simple motorcycle journey transformed into an extraordinary tale of Thai hospitality and human connection.
Southern Thailand by motorcycle: Hatyai to Phatthalung
Kickstand up, open box, secure wheels with lock, grab belongings, double check all’s secure, and off we go to explore. It’s the final day of our eight night stay in Thailand. By now, I have (kinda) mastered the art of securing my rental bike whenever we make a pitstop. However, something went terribly wrong this time round.
Having arrived at Napokae, a cultural learning centre in Phatthalung, I was mentally reviewing my bike security routine whilst half-listening to my partner talking about communicating via hand signals. The moment I shut the bike seat, I realised to my horror that I had left my bike key INSIDE the seat!
As someone who has never misplaced her wallet, keys or important belongings, it took me a while to believe this is actually happening to me. I could have kicked myself for being so forgetful. I tried prying open the seat but it wouldn’t budge.
Quick thinking and action plans
What happened after was a swirl of quick mental analysis of possible courses of action. Securing a safe place for the rental bike was of prime importance. The cultural centre will close in two hours time. As fate would have it, the following day was a rest day for the employees, eliminating the possibility of us heading back to our hotel in Hatyai and returning the next morning for it.
The bike rental company refused to send help, citing the distance as a deterrent. Grab courier was a distant possibility but we were almost scammed by a Grab driver on our first day in Thailand and it left a distaste in our mouths. But that’s for another story.
Examining various scenarios, we eventually arrived at the conclusion that I was to stay put while my riding partner headed back to Hat Yai solo to retrieve the second set of keys and then back to unlock the bike in Phatthalung.
The clock was ticking and the sun was beating down at us. However, for this plan to work, we had to get the buy-in from Napokae to ensure they open the gates for us when we return that same night.
“I understand.” A lady who looked like the manager seemed to comprehend the situation. Finally someone who can make decisions! Things are finally looking up. Phew! She promised to open the gate that night when we were ready.
My partner was in a rush to leave – without me – stating that the extra weight (me as a pillion) would probably slow him down for the 120km trip. I did not argue seeing that the later he leaves, the longer he would take to return. Before my partner rode off into the sunset, he passed me an anti-mosquito spray and some cash. My phone battery was running low. What am I supposed to do now?
Napokae Learning Centre: A hidden gem in Phatthalung
With absolutely nothing to do nearby, I visited Napokae, a sustainable oasis made of bamboo, wood and other organic materials. This is a bustling cultural learning centre where locals and foreigners explore, shop, learn and engage in crafts such as tie-dye, beading and more.
Everywhere I turned was an Instagram opportunity. With the evening sun setting against the lotus pond and fields where horses graze, sheep and goats bray, Napokae’s beauty was amplified. I made a mental note that this place is definitely worth coming again when time permits in future.
Despite the place being such a picture-perfect postcard, I was feeling down due to my blunder. I half berated and half consoled myself for having such a great partner who thought of solutions first instead of playing the blame game. All the while wondering whatever the fog happened to my brains.
Thai family hospitality: From stranger to guest
With a good four hours to while away, I did what I do best – poke around the area and see what comes up. What happened subsequently was an unexpected unfolding of human kindness and generosity.
Seeing me loitering aimlessly around their compound, the ‘Manager’ waved and invited me to the veranda.
“Come, come!” She waved excitedly with a big smile. At my wits end, I brushed away my Chinese upbringing which disapproved me imposing on others and going to people’s houses empty-handed.
When I heard “You can wait here!” an immense sense of relief washed over me. Finally, I do not have to wander around aimlessly in my tight boots that have wrapped my feet for close to 10 hours already! I was immensely grateful.
The ‘Manager’ turned out to be the owner of Napokae. I learnt that she is called Poo. “I have four businesses”. She went on to share proudly how she is not only the founder of Napokae, she’s also the proud owner of a construction materials company, a 4D business, on top of making and selling her intricate handmade beadwork. She even personally gifted two of her handmade bead work to the Princess of Thailand.
Motherly kindness and thoughtfulness
Just then, an elderly ambled onto the veranda and greeted me in Mandarin, ‘Ni hao’ (你好）while laying claim to a wooden rocking chair. I felt immediately at ease hearing my mother tongue, setting my hopes high that she might be able to speak my language. Many of the service staff I came across in the city of Hatyai spoke to me in fluent Mandarin. A couple even conversed with me in Teochew.
While I came to realise that ni hao was the only phrase the old lady knew in my mother tongue, my visit turned into a cultural learning experience with me partaking in Thai cooking, tucking in to local delights and having a go at beading.
To start off, I was presented with a jug of ice cold water and some snacks – fried bananas and grapes. I felt so grateful. I’m usually not shy with strangers but this time round, I was totally unlike myself, feeling bad about imposing myself on the family. The old lady must have sensed my reticence and asked, via Poo, “Are you afraid?”, “Don’t you worry”.
My heart warmed when I heard that. Here she was, more concerned about me feeling scared than concerned about having a stranger who could rob or do bad things to them in their home. From plying me with homecooked food and freshly-squeezed juices, to warding off hunting mosquitoes at dusk with an electric fan, Grandma never stopped making me feel at home.
What set my heart at ease was how empathetic she was, knowing how I must have felt and that I would probably need a toilet break. She even told me to “Take it easy” since there’s nothing else I can do except to wait for my partner to come pick me up. She also repeatedly asked if I was hungry. I lied, not wanting to further inconvenience the kind family.
I was also concerned about my partner who’s riding to and fro in peak traffic. He probably would not have eaten, doing his best to make his way back to me as soon as possible. With the on-going rush hour and poor road conditions in Phathalung, my partner’s ride took way longer than indicated on Google maps.
The kind and friendly family members
When Poo’s sister Peaw arrived, she brought with her her favourite fruit – durians, which is also known as the King of Fruits.
“You can call me Peaw, as in ‘piao liang’ (漂亮 is beautiful in Mandarin) and showed off her beautiful, deep dimples which instantly drew me to her.
As I found out later, they were a family of creatives. Peaw is an art teacher and a brilliant artist. She showed me some of her work – stunning works of still-life with colour pencils as her main tools. I wish I was her student!
As the sun took a rest and the sky turned increasingly dark, grandma came out with this cold freshly-squeezed lime juice with honey for me.
“..relieves sore throats” Poo translated. I noted that grandma poured me a full cup of the thirst-quenching, throat-soothing lime juice with a cup full of ice (something characteristic in Thailand, probably due to the hot weather). Sweet, zesty with just a tinge of sourness, it turned out to be a cup of love for me.
Fully immersing in Thai culture and hospitality
One thing led to another. The next moment, I found myself a student of Poo and picking up the art of beading in their home! It was a very spacious house packed with framed art pieces, and notably huge portraits of their now deceased grandfather and father, together with their beloved old King, King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great, the ninth king of Thailand from the Chakri dynasty.
Again, grandma plied me with more food and snacks, offering me a box of durians. Peaw, a fellow durian lover, revealed that she once ate durians for 4 months straight and put on 4kgs with no regrets.
I gradually found the right workflow and began working on beading independently. At that moment, I found myself wondering at the surrealism of the moment. I was right in the middle of a total stranger’s living room, who introduced me to her family members, ate and drank whatever goodies they fed me, and learning the intricate art of beading from the master herself!
By then, grandma was ready to sleep and already dressed in her silky long nightgown and proceeded to her bedroom just a few steps away.
Finally at half past nine in the evening, I reconnected with my partner via WiFi. He was near, at a petrol station half an hour’s ride away.
Traditional Thai cooking experience
“You want to learn Thai cooking?” Poo asked with bright eyes and a big smile hearing that my partner was almost here. I jumped at the opportunity at a bout of Thai cultural immersion. While I was entertained with beadwork, Poo was actually hard at work in the kitchen, preparing the ingredients for dinner. Such a touching gesture!
In the kitchen, Poo deftly proceeded to fry the well-whisked eggs which bloomed perfectly in the pan. The egg was fluffy and browned at just the right temperature.
While I thought I was there to witness the making of, Poo excitedly asked me to take over the next dish, Pineapple Pork. It is a traditional local dish made up of cubed pork, pineapples, yellow peppers, garlic and spring onions, plus a secret traditional sauce available at Napokae.
First up, add garlic to heated oil. ‘Uhmm’ uttered Poo approvingly. Proceed to stir fry the cubed pork and be patient. Once cooked, add in the pineapples and yellow peppers, followed by the secret Thai sauce. Stir, stir stir.
“Try the food. Go on, you try”, Poo egged me on to taste my own cooking from a little spoon. Not much of a cook back home, Poo insisted Peaw take photos of me cooking to show my partner. So sweet of them!
The food was hot and ready, but my partner was still nowhere in sight.
The late arrival and the best Thai dinner
The roads were pitch black and I was worried my partner would take a wrong turn. Worse still, both of us have poor eyesight at night. The attentive Poo offered to walk with me to the entrance to await my partner’s arrival. Just then, we saw a faint light and he’s arrived, finally!
Poor thing, he did not even grab any bite and only had one hurried drink in the past six hours. It was almost 10pm. It was then I realised that my host has yet to have dinner. She had slaved in the kitchen and skipped dinner with her own family so that we could eat together.
Coupled with two more dishes prepared by grandma earlier, we tucked in to one of the best meals we ever had in Thailand. A meal that was cooked with love and specially prepared warm for us. We were extremely touched and fretted that we had nothing on us to offer them as a gesture of appreciation.
After dinner, they tried to ply us with more durians and air-flown avocados. We were extremely full by then and politely declined. Poo made sure to check her security cameras that our bike was secure and alerted her security guard on night duty to open the gates for us.
Somehow, we managed to find our way back to our hotel amidst the pitch darkness past 1am. We took around three hours to return to the city of Hatyai riding in the rain. What made it easier and doable was a full belly and a full heart. The kindness I have experienced in the Land of Smiles shall forever be etched in my heart.
Top tips for motorbike adventures in Thailand
- Key management: Always have a designated spot for your keys and important documents.
- Google Translate is your friend: Download the app before your trip.
- Cash is king: Most places in Southern Thailand, even touristy areas like Hatyai, do not accept cards.
- Power up: A fully-charged power bank can be a lifesaver when your phone is your main communication tool.
- Smile and respect: A friendly demeanour can open doors, especially when you’re in a tight spot. I have come to realise that opportunities come when your heart is open. Always remain respectful at all times and do not overstep your boundaries.
Lessons learned: My takeaway
What started as a frustrating mishap turned into one of the most memorable experiences of my trip. It taught me that sometimes, the best travel stories come from the moments when things don’t go according to plan.
So, the next time you’re planning a motorbike adventure in Thailand, remember: pack your sense of humour along with your keys, and be open to the unexpected. You never know when a simple mistake might lead to an unforgettable adventure!
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Check out their Facebook page or TikTok if you would like to find out more about Napokae.
Location: Napokae Cultural Centre, Phatthalung
Address: National Hwy No 4048, Khuan Khanun, Thailand, Phatthalung
Best visiting hours: Morning to late afternoon
Contact: +66 62 591 6632
Email: na*********@ho*****.com
Getting there:
From Hatyai: Approximately 120km via Route 4.
By motorcycle: 2-3 hours depending on traffic
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